Tales, Trails and Bells

Epic: noting or pertaining to a long poetic composition, usually centered upon legendary figures, in which a series of great achievements or events is narrated in elevated style.

Well, OF COURSE, narration in an elevated style is a guarantee.  

If you use the word "Epic" in the state of Colorado ... you best have something somewhat Other Worldly to back it up and I'm here to testify that this loop is AllThatAndABagOfChips.

We (CK and I) ogled over pictures posted by a friend in 2011.  Maroon Bells 4 Pass Loop was GOING to happen ... not sure when or how ... but it became an item on the Bucket List.  When the date was finally set in stone, we chatted about how important training would be.  Well, the summer days rolled by and before I knew it, it was a few days before the hike and I had not even done A hike.  I never dreamed that I would become a Weekend Warrior, but it's been a 2013 reality for me. 

Route

Starting @ Maroon Lake TH

Day 1: Hike to just below West Maroon Pass

Day 2: W Maroon Pass + Frigid Air Pass

Day 3: Trail Rider Pass

Day 4: Buckskin Pass/Back to Maroon Lake TH

We rode the shuttle up to the Maroon Bells TH and were greeted with a swarm of tourists.  Dozens of people hustling 200 yards to get the iconic photo seen below.

Maroon Bells (TH view)

I've seen this shot dozens of times (hanging on the walls in restaurants, art galleries, calendars etc.) and dreamed about the day that I could see it with my own green eyeballs ... it didn't disappoint.

We started our long journey in the afternoon on Thursday, Aug 8 - party of six, 5+ miles en route to no table, freeze-dried dinners, and zero cocktails.  We arrived at Camp 1 around 5 PM after trudging slowly upward through intermittent rain.  That glorious evening, Happy Hour consisted of "6 tired people" plopping 40 - 50 lb backpacks down on the high-altitude ground, setting up tiny tents for shelter and gaping at the spectacular valley seen below.  It was powerfully intoxicating despite the absence of spirits.  

Valley Below W Maroon Pass

West Maroon Pass Looming

After inhaling our surprising tasty dinners, we all crawled into our little hotels relatively early and it was the coldest night of the trip sleeping at 11,000+ feet.  The next morning, I stumbled out of our 2 (wo)man tent into 40 degree air and my legs politely reminded me of our pilgrimage from the day before (legs: “ Thanks a lot Asshole”).  West Maroon Pass harrumphed and stared down at us from far, far away (centered in the top of the photo above).

Deb and I started our (what would become) ritual of breaking down, packing up and boiling water ((for yummy hot Tazo Awake black teas and (OMG I'm so sorry Honey ... not enough) Mountain House Granola with Milk and Blueberries)).  Speaking of breaking down ... Roomie (being from NC - elevation 424') painfully confessed on this chilly morning that she was physically in over her head ... lugging a heavy backpack with 21 miles of strenuous hiking to go - topping at approximately 12,000' at least once every day.  So, sadly, the SuperLoop turned into an OutAndBack for her and CK.  Therefore, there will be a 2014 REpeat 4 Peak  ... I promise Christin.

Day 2 - W Maroon Pass + Frigid Air Pass
We started our ascent up W Maroon Pass on an absolutely gorgeous morning.  It had been a while since I'd done any substantial climbing (on my feet) and I was quickly reminded of the mental/physical prowess necessary to get to the top.  I couldn't stop thinking about the amount of energy that I KNEW this loop demanded ... and I KNEW I honestly hadn't possessed that kind of energy in several months.  I was the weakest (un)legendary hiker in a group of very strong people and I was worried about getting myself to the finish line.

Deb and Jess (W Maroon Pass Approach)

Just for the record, these ladies are Tough As Nails 

View from the top of W Maroon Pass

One pass down!

Legendary Figure

Matt and Jess (Descending W Maroon Pass)

Dropping into Hasley Basin

The section of trail between WMP and Frigid Air Pass is my new FAVORITE hiking spot on Earth.  The wildflowers were popping like crazy and endless beauty blossomed/rolled/spilled/sprouted for miles around us.  

I wish I could insert a Scratch and Sniff

I don’t have a single photo for Frigid Air Pass because I was too focused on putting one foot in front of the other (however, feel free to fantasize about 40 minutes of straight up mental and physical torture).  Just remember this about FAP … 12,465’ and 40% grade.  Those are some important stats for people who dig Trip Reports.  

In the Trees

Coming down from Frigid Air Pass this magical valley came into view.  I started mumbling incoherently about trout being in that water.  I think everybody thought I was delusional because the water source started basically RIGHT THERE.  However, I have natural instincts when it comes to fish.  Just so happened, there were 35 brookies in the first decent sized hole.  I know that I've confessed to being a lying fisherman ... but THAT number is not an exaggeration ... it's true.

Kings Falls - Near Campsite #2

Even though we were drop dead exhausted when we stopped at Camp 2 ... Deb and I hustled down to this little stream like little kids on Christmas morning.  Deb was first in the water (as usual).  So, Jess got to witness me selecting/tying flies for the second time this summer and she looked like she was watching paint dry (again).  However, I happen to mention the concept of matching the hatch ... and she sarcastically commented on the massive army of mosquitoes buzzing around our heads at the moment.  So, I pilfered through my magic blue box and selected a little mosquito-type bottom fly.  Dang if a trout didn't hit that fly immediately ... and I was quickly up to my knees in ice-cold snow melt smiling from ear to ear with a fish on the other end of my line.

Trout Slayer @ Work/N Fork Crystal River

Photo Courtesy (or possibly stolen from) Matt Simmons

Ribbon

Trail Rider Pass

Day 3: Trail Rider Pass

This piece appears in the middle of my long poetic composition ... but you should know that I'm writing it last.  I'm writing it last because this was the defining moment of the epic adventure for me.  

I mentioned earlier that I was worried about myself because I wasn't physically prepared to do this loop.  This was BY FAR the hardest day on paper and I asked enough questions prior to starting our hike that morning to understand how tough this was going to be for me.  2000' of climbing to almost 13,000' is basically (almost) a 14er tucked smack dab in the middle of this rugged Superloop.  

Rolling out of camp that morning, we were giddy.  We had a stream crossing coming up soon down the trail ... so the girls were meandering along in flip flops/Chacos/water shoes.  We chatted and walked quietly ... breathing in another glorious morning.  The trail was gentle and kind - littered with tracks from all the creatures that shared this trail unseen by night and early dawn.  Their prints each told a story and I skillfully identified the owner of each set with authority (that I don't really have).

After two miles of easy trail, we came upon the creek crossing and we carefully crossed the stream one at a time.  We changed into serious shoes (except for Deb - who finished the entire hike in her water shoes ... tough girl) ... and well ... things got serious.  From here it would be all UP to Trail Rider Pass.  STEEP up and LONG up and HOT up ... with a false summit in there to really JACK you up.  

Immediately, Jess and Matt quietly disappeared up the trail ... tackling this monster climb at their own pace.  Deb and I moved along together ... even though she is such an incredible climber and much faster than me ... she stayed with me and kept me in sight.  I settled into a pace that could be compared to slow as molasses in January and began what would be a series of personal great achievements.  

This summer, my body has suffered and stumbled ... leaving me in a space that I've never experienced before.  Incapable of doing the things that I love to the level that I demand of myself - the things that replenish my soul.  AND HERE I AM ... present focused ... in over my head ... mentally/physically hyper-alert to fatigue ... with Deb by my side the whole way to the top.  Praising me, loving me ... encouraging me ... even though I'm stopping (again and again and again).  Deb: You are doing SO good.  I hit a wall before the summit even came into view.  We sat (me defeated) on a big boulder overlooking the valley that we had just left while sharing a long stick of jerky and Orange Gatorade.  As we were sitting there, I thought (and we talked) about Carrie's earlier decision and I was so thankful for her that she had turned around when she did.  I WANTED to do this loop BAD and I wanted to quit - right there.  It took everything in me to get up and keep moving.  Deb: Let's go Baby.  We pushed on and after MANY steps and stops ... we finally reached the top of the false summit and Trail Rider Pass finally came into view.  Personal achievement.

We regrouped at this cruel (but beautiful) spot briefly.  Matt and Jess were rolling on when we rolled up.  Once again, I had to play some super mind games to keep going.  Brain: Pretend that you're on a mountain bike.  Eventually, I could see two hikers high on the trail approaching the summit - Matt and Jess.  Lucky suckers.  I watched them slowly shrink and disappear.  We kept trudging and trudging.  By now, Deb would just turn and smile sweetly/encouraging/patiently at me from a few yards above.  I wanted to lay down - right here and spend the rest of my days.  Call it good.  Matt and Jess both peaked over the top ... cheering and encouraging.  After MANY, MANY steps I look up and Deb has stopped climbing.  She smiles ... I'm waiting for you... we are going to finish this together.  We crested the ridge and we were greeted by M and J's smiling faces ... and Snowmass Lake winked at me from down below.  

My soul was replenished - right there ... in that one moment.

Trail Rider Pass

More Legendary Figures

Along the trail, we heard from a passing hiker that Snowmass Lake was the most beautiful lake in the world.  After dragging my backpack up Trail Rider Pass I didn't really give a rat's ass about seeing another high alpine lake.  It sounds horrible, but I was DONE.  The only feeling that I got when I saw Snowmass Lake from a far was ... damn - I just want a zipline/gondola/4-Wheeler/Sherpa/Dr. Pepper/slice of pizza right now AND I want to set this backpack on fire.

Snowmass Lake

However, when we finally reached our destination ... it was a pretty cool lake.  We wandered the area looking for the perfect camp spot and found some prime real estate right by the water.  Off came the backpacks and we are setting up tents immediately … moments later, Miss Goody Two Shoes points out that we were breaking a (well known) Wilderness Rule.  Two Shoes, please don’t make us move.  We went back and forth ... had a vote and the (exhausted) majority ruled "We stay".  We were about one hour into enjoying our new waterfront home when Ranger Dick strolled up and politely asked to see our Back Country Permit.  I started slinging that buttery Southern Accent left and right.  Told him I didn’t fill that permit out … my friend Christin filled it out ... my other friend is from sea level ... she got real sick ... they had to turn around … I didn’t read it … I didn’t know.  Smiling Ranger: I'm sorry but you guys have got to move.  The Ranger was extremely nice and it wasn't his fault that exhaustion trumped common sense.  We relocated to another lovely spot -  nestled in the trees, legally 100’ away from the water and I did make the following statement out loud and will record it here ... FOREVER in blog history, “Jess, you were right ... you're always right.”

Snowmass Lake (evening)

Snowmass Lake (morning)

Now listen to this, when we woke up on our last morning in the woods and made our way to the shoreline … we witnessed the sun working a miracle on Snowmass Lake.  Suddenly, it WAS the most beautiful lake that I’d ever seen in my life.  We all drank in this precious moment in big thirsty gulps because it was truly SUPER special ... it was like catching Mother Nature singing Hallelujah.

Down by the water

Day 4: Buckskin Pass
The horses were pointed towards the barn.  It was a long day on the trail, but relatively easy hiking and knowing it was our last day brought a sense of relief.  We were all physically stretched because we aren't hardcore "hikers" and the idea of dropping those packs for the last time was enticing.  We celebrated our last pass surrounded by day hikers.  It was all down from Buckskin Pass ... it deserved a hand standing ovation.

Up(side down) on the mountain