Sitting in an adrenaline-junkie-filled Paramount Theater showcasing the best of the Banff Film Festival in 2012 ... an obsession began in 5 minutes, 23 seconds. As a matter of fact, it became an obnoxious idée fixe that never simmered below a low boil each winter. For 3 months every year, Instagram assaulted me with images of endless deep powder fields, perfectly spaced Japanese snow-pasted silver birch trees, looming volcanic peaks in the background (#japow #niseko #skijapan etc.). I dreamed about Hokkaido for 7 years ... and then one day my dreams became reality.
I will be the first person to tell you that planning a ski vacation on the northern-most island of Japan is not to be taken lightly. Dragging ski gear across the world, enduring a language barrier, renting/driving a car in a foreign country + riding very unknown terrain from mountain to mountain ... can simply be mind-boggling. There are SO MANY things to think about and consider. I will also be the first person to tell you that it's worth all of it.
Where in the world IS Hokkaido?
Hokkaido, literally "Northern Sea Circuit", is the second largest island of Japan and the northernmost prefecture. (Hokkaido is roughly the size of Colorado for size comparison.)
How
do I get to Hokkaido?
Google that question and you will be flooded with
many options. Here’s one option. Fly-fly-fly into New Chitose Airport, the main
airport of Sapporo, Hokkaido (i.e. Den-NRT-CTS). To give you an idea of travel time … Denver
to Tokyo (United Airlines 143, 12 hr, 20 min) and then Tokyo to Sapporo (United
7987, 1 hr, 45 min). Note, Hokkaido is 15 hours ahead of Denver. Also, you will
have to travel quite a distance from Sapporo to the actual ski resorts (~ 2.5 hours to Niseko).
Should
I rent a car?
Yes … but ONLY IF you have some serious winter
driving skills. I have never seen so much snow in my entire life. There are trucks on the highway hauling away the snow. During
blizzard conditions it is not unusual to not be able to see directly in front
of your car. BTW, the thought of crashing a rented car in a
foreign country can be a little disturbing while driving during these storms.
However, I can’t imagine NOT having a car on this trip (especially if you’re
skiing multiple resorts). Tidbit: In order to rent a car in Japan you will need an
International Driving Permit. You can purchase this at your local AAA for $20
($36 if they also shoot your passport photo). Do not arrive in Japan without
this permit. There’s no sweet talking yourself into a rented car without an
International Driving Permit. Also, needless to say, make sure you rent a 4 x 4
vehicle with snow tires (can highly recommend Nippon Rent-A-Car).
How
many days is sufficient to ski Hokkaido?
Well, the answer to this question is as many days as
is personally feasible for you + 2. Twelve days was definitely a reasonable
amount of time to explore Hokkaido. However, I could easily spend an entire
winter there. So, the safe answer is …. hmmmmm …. somewhere between …. 10 – 90 days.
When
is the best time to ski Hokkaido?
The snow starts falling in November in Hokkaido. Of
course, you certainly don’t want to risk traveling across the planet to ski if
there’s no base to ski on. They DO call it Japanuary. Pick your dates wisely! Here’s an excellent source of data from SnowJapan to
help you roll the dice for the best powder situation (https://www.snowjapan.com/japan-daily-snow-weather-reports/Niseko-Now).
Which resorts should I ski?
There are GOBS of ski resorts in Hokkaido.
Niseko
Niseko/Mt. Annupuri/East Face/Skier's Left
There are GOBS of ski resorts in Hokkaido.
Niseko
Unfortunately, you can’t ski Hokkaido and NOT ski
Niseko. “Unfortunately” because the entire skiing community knows this and flocks
to this resort in droves. I should also mention that Niseko is Japanese-lite in many
ways. However, this only becomes apparent when you venture outside of this tiny
tourist bubble. At Niseko, (1) you will
find that everyone speaks excellent English, (2) the majority of the skiers at Niseko United are
tourists, (3) the restaurants serve everything EXCEPT authentic Japanese-style
meals. Niseko is considered the Aspen/Vail of Japan because of the vast terrain
(by Japan standards/2,191 acres) and the touristy vibe in the town. So, yes, if you are in Hokkaido for skiing ... you should definitely ski
Niseko.
Google knows a lot about Niseko United. However, the Devil is in the details ...
Firstly, hike to terrain is available to the summit of Mt. Niseko Annupuri (the highest peak in the Niseko Mountain Range). Exit Gate 3 and join the line of devoted powder seekers for a 15 minute hike to the top. Once you reach the summit, you have some options. The EASIEST option is to drop the east face, facing Mt. Yotei. It IS possible to return to the Hanazono Lift #3, however you must pay attention and stay skier's right after descending a wide open powder field to get to the lift. For untracked powder, drop skier's left at the tree line and you will undoubtedly find fresh lines even days after a big storm. This area is extremely fun and quite beautiful. This route will eventually lead you to a cat track and a necessary hike (20 min) back to the resort world (BTW, turn right on the cat track). Are you paying attention? The HARDEST option is to drop the west face. IF YOU DROP THE WEST FACE, after floating down almost GUARANTEED untracked powder, you will have to hike/post hole/shuffle on skis/sweat bullets/ponder the absence of visible lifts for 30 minutes to the nearest road. Once you reach this road, you won't know where in the hell you are ... but FYI it's referred to as Goshiki Onsen ... located approximately 20 km away from Niseko United Ski Resort and you WILL NEED A CAR for the 40 minute drive back to the resort. Yes, I'm speaking from experience (and am still eternally thankful to be picked up on the side of the road by a kind couple from Moab, Utah).
View from Mt. Annupuri Summit
Obligatory Hike Out
Mt. Yotei (Mt. Fuji of Hokkaido)
Secondly, Niseko United will close a lift faster than you can slurp an Udon noodle. If it is storming, chances are very high that the upper lifts will be closed for the duration of the entire day. This can be quite frustrating for a skier who typically skis the Vail of the United States. The Japanese are very cautious when it comes to avalanche danger. Just beware, BEFORE you purchase a lift ticket during a snow storm ... check which lifts are actually operating. Another tidbit: lift tickets in Hokkaido are very inexpensive by U.S. standards (highest priced lift ticket = Niseko United All Mountain Pass at 7,400 yen/$67 USD).
King Lift #4
Mt. Annupuri Summit
Tidbit: The backcountry terrain around Niseko is incredible. I highly suspect that the majority of the Japow footy flooding social media is not shot within the resort boundaries. You should check into renting touring skis/split board or better yet break down and fork it out for a cat tour ... it's only money ... you are in JAPAN ... just do it ( Niseko Photography ). Also, yes, you should bring and know how to use avy gear if backcountry skiing is part of your trip.
For cocktails/whisky in Niseko ... here are the two can't miss bars .... (be sure to have a pour of Hibiki Japanese Whisky ... yes it is "whisky") ...
Toshiro's Bar
Beneath the Bell of Encounters (Mt. Isola)
Pay to Play
➔ THE END (or the beginning)
Tidbit: Milk Kobo
Rusutsu
Rusutsu
Rusutsu ski resort is located approximately 50 minutes southwest from Niseko (1,500 acres/70% gladed). Excellent choice if venturing out of the Niseko area. This little resort wasn't very crowded and the in bounds glades would be amazing after a deep storm. The majority of riders/skiers here are true locals and often leave the off piste untouched. We were not blessed with the opportunity to ski fresh powder at Rusutsu - therefore, it remains on the to-do-list. Tidbit: There aren't a lot of options for aprés ski in Rusutsu ... so the best option is to do your celebrating back in Niseko.
Lake Toya/Summit of Mt. Isola
Tidbit: Bell of Encounters, where Mt. Yotei and Mt. Shiribetsu have come to meet each other is located on the Ryumyaku Route (where energy flows along mountain ridges) and is thought to be flowing with mystical energy.
Furano
I am under verbal agreement to divulge zero beta regarding this resort (but you CAN know that I DID buy a FURANO sticker).
➔ THE END (or the beginning)
